General DIY thread (post your project pics!)

[Beefy]

You don't need a lot of current for a CKKIII. 1A is more than high enough.

I wouldn't get that one - snap in is useless. Go for a screw mount model.

[rayk]

Well off I go finding another one and redoing the back plate heh!

edit2: Going to see if this thing will fit into my case http://australia.rs-online.com/web/sear ... &R=1230268

edit: some amp pr0n

[dingostolemyipod]

Farnell have Bulgin IEC entrys that are switched and fused for about $10-15 depending on design. Or even go for the clearance one for less than $3.

You're best off trying to minimise the amount of mains wiring you do so an all-in-one is much better than separate fuse, separate switch. You shouldn't get RF interference anyway so a filtered one isn't necessary (but definitely doesn't hurt).

In terms of current rating, you'll find there's more variation with the filtered ones as then they can use smaller inductors etc. The non-filtered ones will usually be all rated at 10A. Even so, a DAC or a headphone amp doesn't suck much power, so even a 2A inlet is fine, any higher is fine also. It's just if you were ever going to build a power amp that you'd need to consider the power rating.

[Naka]

edit: some amp pr0n

So smexxyyyyyyyy

[ihasmario]

It's a shame about the ugly 30 yearold on top of it.

[rayk]

My kits are here

can't wait to get home from work and GET ON WITH IT!

CKKIII board is tiny - about 10cm by 12cm or so.

[rayk]

Okay....

How much abuse can the opa take? I had to resolder mine a few times.... and the chips felt pretty hot at times from having the soldering iron de solder the pins. So now I'm not sure if they are burnt or not. I did forget to put the 0.8mm tip and my solder is 1mm thick (lead free cos it's healthier).

Also the resistors are pretty tiny, so it's really hard to see the tolerance band. How do I tell which way they are read? Is the end where the paint strip goes over the edge a bit the start? I've soldered the first 6 resistors judging by the amount of them and corresponding parts on the part list.

So yeah, now I'm not sure how functional my mini3 will be haha!

[Beefy]

(lead free cos it's healthier).

OK, that is a huge, huge mistake to use lead free solder. It is far too difficult to work with. I strongly recommend you switch to regular 60/40 or 63/37 leaded stuff.

[rayk]

Hmm alrite, I have both kinds so it's easy to switch.

Still I wonder what the condition of those chips is atm... Am I stuffed until I finish the unit and try listening to it before I know if they are gone or not?

Good thing the CKKIII looks like it doesn't have any crappy surface mount chips.

Last question, where do I get hook up wire from?

[Beefy]

Still I wonder what the condition of those chips is atm... Am I stuffed until I finish the unit and try listening to it before I know if they are gone or not?

Yes, you won't know until you try to power it up.

Good thing the CKKIII looks like it doesn't have any crappy surface mount chips.

SOIC and smaller surface mount is extraordinarily easy if you have flux: http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NS3036

A tiny dab of solder on one pad. Line the chip up. Heat up the pad. Chip pin 'sinks' into solder on pad; reheat and realign if necessary. Put a dab of flux on all of the chip pins and pads. Put a dab of solder on your iron. Quickly touch the solder on your iron onto the fluxed pin opposite the first one you did. The solder will magically wick up under the pin. It will be nice and secure for you to do all of the pins.

Excellent video here: http://www.curiousinventor.com/guides/S ... dering/101

And if you have a small tip on your iron, SOIC is still actually large enough to apply solder directly.

Last question, where do I get hook up wire from?

Altronics is where I usually grab mine.

[dingostolemyipod]

[Beefy]

Mini3!

[dc]

nice! is it making noises!?

[dingostolemyipod]

I feel sorry for anyone who attempts one of those as a 1st project.
Very fiddly, and would be worse for someone with lesser tools, it would be a nightmare with a cheap and nasty iron.
But anyway for someone of my calibre, was a breeze

I used thermal tape to stick down the SOIC chips prior to soldering, which made it a cinch, until someone wants to desolder them. Also used thermal tape for the 3 terminal regualtor, beats messing around with goo.

It's the "high performance" edition, set with a gain of 2.2 (+7dB). Sounds fairly clean, but rather bright upper mids and treble, good ol' Analog Devices house-sound might be to blame for that.
Terrible match for the PL50s.
Much better match for the R02pro.

[Dave_Ease]

Very nice. And I agree, as someone that attempted this as a first project, very fiddly. Mine aren't actually completed (I think I intended 4 of these...), I successfully made the following errors:
1) Installing opamps in the wrong locations (all 4),
2) Installing battery clips in wrong locations (the only one that successfully made sound through both channels)
3) Mangled front panels (I think I have enough to complete 2)
All of which left me with a hatred for SMT, several Mini3 boards with varying degrees of population and a few hammond cases to help ventilate my laptop. Probably the best/worst decision was to buy a second hand Mini3 constructed by someone more competent, so I know what it sounds like but now I have no drive to bring the others up to spec.

Using the thermal tape is a neat idea.